In Namibia’s north-western corner, the gravel road turns rocky and the landscape turns a deep basalt red, speckled with the green of euphorbias and sturdy shepherd trees. The flat-topped mountains shimmer in the distance with an unmistakable Damaraland character and the route speaks of adventure.
Along the rollercoaster road that runs northwards toward Kaokoland from Khorixas, Twyfelfontein and the Skeleton Coast, you’ll find Palmwag Lodge and Camp. More than a stop along the way, Palmwag is a destination in itself. Positioned on a tributary of the Uniab River in a cluster of makalani palms and surrounded by spectacular scenery, it’s a Damaraland oasis. With a choice of accommodation, it can easily draw you in for a day or two, to rest from the road and partake in the activities. And if your timing is good, you may even spot Jimbo the desert elephant, a regular Palmwag visitor.
Elated to be driving deeper into this exquisite landscape, I bumped along the stony road as elegant giraffe loped across it and watched me with big eyes fringed with long lashes. After passing through the veterinary gate and filling up with diesel, I turned towards the palm trees with a happy heart. I have got to know Palmwag over the years and have watched it transform into the coherent whole it is today. It has evolved over the decades, getting better and better like a good wine. Gondwana Collection Namibia took it over in 2017 and began to give the property a much-needed facelift. The rooms have been upgraded as have the campsites that now boast their own private bathrooms, and a series of well-equipped Camping2Go safari tents offer comfort with an outdoors touch. The relaxed Palmwag
character that has made this such a popular stop for travellers has been retained and the pool bar is still there, offering a larger menu and attractive seating area, while the best place to view the sun set slipping into the makalanis is from the deck of the (enlarged) thatch-roofed restaurant.
Part of the drawcard is the sprawling Palmwag Concession Area, a vast conservation area of 582 000-hectares, abundant in wildlife. Palmwag collaborates with neighbouring conservancies, the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism and Save the Rhino Trust to safeguard this rich wild heritage and offers day trips and sunset nature drives into the concession area. And it’s all about scenery here, experiencing the land in all its glory. I hopped aboard the open vehicle for the afternoon drive, joining a group of other appreciative guests to careen through the concession area, pausing for mountain zebra and oryx, eventually making our way to a hill top for sundowner drinks and snacks. On cue, the sun gave an exemplary performance lighting up the world in gold.
The next day, I studied the activity board, deciding how best to spend the beautiful day. Options included rhino tracking, a sleepover in the concession wilderness, the nature drives and a guided walk. After long days in the car, I looked forward to feeling the earth beneath my feet and breathing in the landscape, and opted for the walk in the hills bordering the river. Puddles of water remained after a welcome wet rainy season that broke the long drought and butter-coloured grass blew gently in the breeze. With legs stretched and blood circulating once again, we crested the small rise for a grand view of the rolling grassy land, edged by the Etendeka mountains in the distance. Then, it was back down to the lodge for a wholesome lunch and a good afternoon siesta.
The highlight of the day was still in store, raising glasses to the sun setting behind the makalani palms, the delicious buffet supper spread and peaceful sleep. The rugged long road northwards to Epupa Falls lay ahead and the adventure of another day.
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