A shebeen like no other

For most Namibians living in leafy upmarket suburbs and visitors from abroad to Namibia, the first thing that comes to mind when they hear the word ‘shebeen’ is that it is a noisy drinking place somewhere in a ‘dangerous’ township. So, they would never dare to set foot in a shebeen.

At the Etosha Safari Camp, visitors can enjoy the atmosphere of a shebeen like nowhere else. Since its creation by Gondwana Collection founder Manfred Goldbeck some 20 years ago, it has become a destination that is high on the bucket list of travellers heading to and from the Etosha National Park, which is just a few kilometres away.

As you make your way past the reception, your attention is immediately distracted by a fascinating collection of memorabilia. Looking through shattered glass window panes, you cannot escape a huge SWAPO logo of a man holding a clenched fist aloft – a reminder of the struggle leading up to Namibia’s independence. But there’s so much more to attract your attention – old street names, posters and collectables – so take your time.

Let your eyes wander as you make your way into the shebeen square with signs proclaiming: ‘Down Corruption Bar,’ South West Brewery Shebeen,’ ‘Madiba House,’ and ‘Only for Colour Blind People.’ And there’s also ‘Evelin Street’ – a street in Windhoek’s Greenwell Matongo area renowned for its numerous shebeens and nightlife. Unlikely to escape your attention is the large, colourful, comical mural of a jackal, rhino and elephant clutching a mug of beer and a baboon sitting on the side.

The name of the restaurant, Okambashu Naantu, an Oshiwambo name meaning ‘Our Home’, lends further atmosphere to the authenticity of the complex. A kambashu is typically a corrugated iron dwelling erected in informal settlements in urban areas.

If you are keen to learn more about the country’s history and the war of independence, take time to view the comprehensive collection of information boards in one of the shebeen’s wings.

Early evening, a fire is lit in the square and the in-house band, the Etosha Safari Boys, gets the vibe going. The band is undoubtedly one of Etosha Safari Camp’s main drawcards, and although it has seen members come and go over the years, they have been entertaining guests ever since the Etosha Safari Camp opened. They have a seemingly endless repertoire of songs and melodies to entertain guests enjoying a pre-drink drink and during dinner – from golden oldies, songs in various Namibian languages and popular Afrikaans songs. One of the long-standing members of the Etosha Safari Boys band strums his stuff on a guitar made from an old oil can – producing perfect acoustics.

Discarded items that would normally be considered junk lend further authenticity to the shebeen. Old car tyres found a new use when they were put to use to create comfortable chairs, while disused plastic bathtubs cut into half found use as perfect seats.
During my most recent visit, I was fortunate to check into the Etosha Safari Camp when the Gondwana Collection crew was busy shooting a video for Valentine’s Day 2024 with the theme song ‘One Love’ by the legendary Bob Marley. On this very special occasion, the local resident band collaborated with Gondwana’s Undivided Band, and although it was the first time they jammed, they soon played in absolute harmony.

Well, it did not take long before guest started making their way to the ‘dance floor.’ Only a few brave ones joined in at first, but the dance floor soon became crowded with guests, the Gondwana Collection crew and staff strutting their stuff. One enthusiastic visitor even took to the dance floor barefoot – much to everyone’s enjoyment.

When the Etosha Safari Camp was conceptualised, the ever-innovative Manfred Goldbeck (now Brand and Marketing Director for the Gondwana Collection) was determined to create an experience that is not only unique to Etosha Safari Camp but unlike anything else in Namibia. Everything about this shebeen tells the story of living in peace and harmony, reconciliation, tolerance, enjoyment, cultural interaction and how friendly Namibians are.

No matter how many times you’ve been to the Etosha Safari Camp, you will keep on coming back, and every time, you will see something that escaped your attention during previous visits.